The Way of Smart Merchandising

The Way of Smart Merchandising
Muhammad Nurul Alam
Senior Merchandiser | Asmara BD Pvt. Ltd. | Dhaka | Bangladesh
Cell: +8801930540035
E-mail : alam@asmarabd.com




Introduction:
Do you know what is the working hour for a merchandiser in Bangladesh . Believe or not Merchandisers in Bangladesh are working more than 13-14 hours as regular job & some time much more . Always they are busy with hundreds of work schedule but nothing can be completed within office hour . So they have to stay in work place up-to late night . You can’t say this is only inefficiency of their profession because most of the time they are over loaded . The owners are having a cost minimizing tendency so they hire a Merchandiser instead of two or more without considering the demand of work load . As a result a merchandiser always fail to enjoy their regular life & gets tired . They loss their innovative force & feel exhausted in older years . We often see merchandiser who aged beyond 45-50 either loss their job or stay in the organization as a good for nothing . Owners don’t want to pay higher salary for him though they already have taken valuable energy ,time & work force in early age . This is really shocking that now they feel you are not to be used . Yes , right now we have to think how can take the best from our life period . Whatever the age we should have to keep energy & not to be exhausted . We can think for us from today & prepare a new deal for your career . To make easy & to be smarter merchandiser in our way of working please let us do something different . Today we are going to discuss how you can manage your thousands of job in a limited period of hours & can keep maximum energy .
Merchandiser work in office
Merchandiser work in office
1) Make a list of all your job:
This is very important what you are doing to keep it in your daily schedule . It would be better to make schedule 1st daily than weekly & finally monthly . Why this is important to do list ? First of all we are human being. So this is not possible to keep everything in our mind & to do the thing in priority basis . Usually a Merchandiser has to work through lots of stress as well as difficulties . For which this is not surprising if you see he is forgetting to do some most important task that should have to perform in first priority . The second thing is – when we see thousands of task that we have to perform within a very short period of time our nerves gets week . we feel exhausted & fatigue . So by the making schedule we can easily prioritize your task & get the most important & urgent thing .

The below diagram will help everyone to do list in the work priority . This may take little time to make your habit with the method but believe me the method is really effective .


Urgent
Not Urgent
Important
  1. Fabric booking
  2. Yarn procurement
  3. Price for new query
  4. PP sample submission
  1. Recape meeting with senior
  2. Production up-date
  3. Bulk Lot shade approval
  4. Factory visit & get the production status
Not Important
  1. File & Sample organizing
  2. System Up-date
  3. Price review
  1. New product collection
  2. Develop product knowledge
  3. Knowing up-date product status of other customer
2) Don’t put task for tomorrow:
Just keep in mind that tomorrow never come . If you are thinking today is for relax & tomorrow will be your busy day that would be unrealistic . Actually it does not happen because tomorrow you will see new task has added to do & in this way task will be more . One day without doing your important task means you are going to burden yourself for tomorrow .So whatever you think that should have be done today from your task priority list , do it immediately . Never wait for tomorrow.

3) Check double/Triple which is mathematical:
Usually a merchandiser works in a rush movement so sometimes it is not possible to do all the mathematical task in cool mind . Suppose you are going to book fabric or yarn . Here you have to calculate some figure to get the fabric amount that can be used for bulk . but for the all rush movement you made little mistake & proceeded for procurement . Your delivery time may be very short so without any revision of your booking hand over it to supplier & finally when the fabric in-housed it was identified what mistake you have done earlier during fabric booking. May be you mistake in color name or fabrication is wrong . Instead of 90/10 cotton/elastane you received fabric in 100% cotton . This is due to you worked in an old work order sheet where fabric was booked in 100% cotton & in the new sheet fabrication was not changed . The mistake is very little but outcome is devastating . To save time you did not give a cross check on the sheet & now all of your production schedule has gone to drain . This is really measurable when you will see your fabric is in-housed but cannot meet delivery date . Now again book the fabric newly & shipped the goods by air due to you missed delivery date . Actually this would not happen if you are careful & taking extra time give revision twice or triple . If you can take help from your colleague to see the booking as second party . This will help you to avoid extra hassle & to utilize your time properly . Here you can keep some key for cross check . cross check means the figure that should be off course changed in new booking . For fabric booking check the below
  • Fabric composition .
  • Fabric construction .
  • Fabric color .
  • Fabric width .
  • Finally Fabric Qty .
4) Don’t miss any mail:
A single mail can change total output . If you are not properly look into your mail & work through of it you may miss some important information . So read your every single mail & share the mail with all the relevant party . Don’t keep it in your box only . If you have some mail that you should give answer please keep it in red mark so that it will not go out of your track .

5) Don’t do a task twice:
This is actually relevant to point no 3 . Take extra time to do anything but don’t think you will do it twice or 2nd time you will get the opportunity to do it again . Suppose you are in great rush hour to submit sample, giving mail repeatedly to factory to submit the sample in certain date along with lots of phone call . Finally received it but factory made mistake to follow earlier comments what buyer has given . That means the sample is rejected & is not ok to send buyer . Again the sample is made following the comments but it was late one week . So all your production plan got delayed because of not to submit the sample due date . Actually from beginning you could avoid all the delay & wrong thing . If you could take just extra 15 minutes to check the change that buyer want in the earlier comment or before stitching you could visit factory & check everything that sample is going in right way it would help you to save time & energy . Take extra minute to do anything .

5) Do extra work just one day:
In your ‘to do list’ you got some task that has to be done by this week but you are engaged so much in some important meeting so could not able to work on weekly schedule . Now what can you do ? Use only one day to work extra hour in the week . Never think to do it every day . You can work extra hour at the last working day of a week so that the next day you can do relax & enjoy family . So a day for a week can be your extra hour to finish pending task . This will help you to minimize your work load .

6) Make a good relation with everyone to get job done early:
This is said that everyone is king in his own work place . May be the person is a lab in charge . As job routine he is bound to do what are all your requirement because owner assigned him to do job what merchandiser demand in related to lab issue . But this is also true he keeps schedule in his every day to do list as per queue . So you cannot ask for lab dip just in a day where as he has hundreds of lab making in the schedule . Here if you have good relation with the person it will be easy to get lab dip though you are not in the queue . So make a good relation to all the department even a person who is in a worker level . Never underestimate any one . Respect all to get respect from every one .

7) Utilize down time:
Usually success comes from the time which is not usually counted by the commners . Because to do extra work there are no alternative way except utilizing down time . Down time means – the time what you are just doing nothing or doing one more job simultaneously . Suppose you are just stucked in the traffic jam which is very common in our city life . It is often seen people are just seating in the jam & trying to blame the system . But if you want to use your down time ,this can be an opportunity for you . Take journal or book & start reading . That means all of your time can be used properly . On the other hand you can use down time in different way . May be you are having lunch .This may take 15 minutes to finish . During your lunch time you can listen radio news in your mobile . This will help you to get up-date information about what is happening around you . your busy life will not stop you to be up-dated in a new day .

8) Keep proper tracking whatever your are doing:
We are human being . So sometime this is not possible to keep everything in our memory . In the merchandising no one can you say everything is in tracking unless he follows some basic rules . The basic rules of keeping track is ‘put down notes’ in your excel sheet or note book . Make a excel sheet & put all your information whatever you receive every day . Put the date on the stuff what you receive from buyer & what you send to buyer . keep same information on the submitted items to avoid any kinds of confusion between you & buyer . Keep your sample / swatch in a place where anything may not be lost . Make sure to keep separately all your important items to be understood by everyone or to get it in your absence . You can follow below rules to keep tracking .
  • Put date on everything .
  • Up-date & review your excel sheet every day .
  • Keep hard copy of all your important mail . Because some time you may not be in net service when the information is required .
  • Put your excel saved in your draft mail to find the data available incase computer is got effected by the harmful virus .
  • Don’t forget to send a mail to any consignee whenever you are sending sample /swatch .
9) Keep all approval in hand :
Don’t miss any of your approval that received from buyer . Suppose fabric quality , sample or trims whatever comments on submission please keep in proper way so that it will not loss . If you have several submission on particular item that sent to buyer make sure to keep date & comment for each submission . This will help you not to be haphazard among the all submission .

10) Don’t miss to put anything on mailing correspondence :
Some time you may feel unnecessary to put things in the mail whatever discussion you did in phone or verbal communication with someone . In reality this is very important & never delay to put the content you discussed in a written document /mail to prove the conversation . Suppose a trim supplier confirmed you in a particular date to deliver the item over the phone . As you feel the commitment is definitely will be met so did not put the conversation in mail . But in the due date you get the supplier denied to deliver the item & ignored his commitment . So if you could keep the commitment in a written document it would be easier to hold him . Believe me this is most effective to make easy your job ,keeping things in mail .

11) Keep clean your desk :
A merchandiser has to do hundreds of job in a day so this is quite natural if his desk gets occupied by lots of stuff like paper , swatch , trims etc. Every day new items come to you & your surrounding is seeming a little store of fabric , sample & with others thing . You feel over loaded as your desk is overloaded by working stuff . How can you clean your desk to make free from all kinds dizzy materials ? This is really challenging for you rather than your daily job . Some time we feel keeping things on desk is not a problem & this is actually to get the things in hand . Believe me if your boss or others want to see anything in your obscene from the desk they might be puzzled & confused what to take & what to not take . So use only 30 minutes to keep clean your desk & put all the stuff in particular folder so that anyone can find any important item . This will make your job easy . Remember ‘The true competition lies is not what we do, but how we do it’.

12) Take suggestion if you are in trouble :
The universal truth is – two head is better than one head . That means if you are trying to do something counsel with other so that you can work more efficiently with less error . Never think you are the perfect one & no need to take suggestion from others . In other way this is called – cheer leader .Cheer leader is your boss , co-worker , friend so If you want to be in track & to do the correctly must discuss with fellow people. Definitely this will ease your job .

13) Filing & updating :
A merchandiser means lots of file & documents, so maintaining file for the each order & keeping the necessary stuff is very important . Actually this is little similar to the point ‘Keep clean your desk’. However this is specifically to put the thing in file properly . How your file will look ? where to keep it ? what name can be given to each file ? there are lots of issue that should have to take in consideration if are really interested to be a smarter merchandiser . To do your task in smart way you need to think about your file . Suppose where to keep it ? always try to keep your important file close to your hand so that you might not be haphazardly looking for your file when you need . Here some suggestion how to keep file –
  • Put a name for your file in bold letter .
  • Put all the information on top of the file ,example – style name , PO no , Qty , & a garment sketch .
  • Your file should be clean & need to keep all the paper in a chronological way .
  • For easy understanding you can use divider to keep separate the subject matter .
  • Use folder to keep different submission ,off course don’t forget to write date .
  • Use metal cliff so that the file can be use for long time .
  • If you receive revised PO please make sure to keep it in file & keep a cross mark on old PO .
  • Never remove any paper from your file ,if Pos are revised keep date on old file & write on top of it why this is changed . 

Career in Merchandising: Factory vs Buying House

Career in Merchandising: Factory vs Buying House

Muhammad Nurul Alam
Senior Merchandiser | Asmara BD Pvt. Ltd. | Dhaka | Bangladesh
&
Honorable Secretary
Apparel Merchandiser Club of Bangladesh Ltd (AMCB )
Cell: +8801930540035
E-mail: alam@asmarabd.com & alamnur09@yahoo.com




Introduction:
In my early career when I was working as an experienced merchandiser always tried to get knowledge which is helpful & very practical for my job. As you know garment industry is more practical rather than theoretical. So this is important for everyone to improve his professional knowledge through practical & most importantly who is working in the apparel industry. Actually the efficiency of a garment merchandiser depends on how much he is doing his job practically. An efficient merchandiser try to change his views, working process by implementing new ideas & learning from mistake. So receiving single knowledge from experienced personnel means reading hundreds of books on any subject matter .But we see in our country only few professionals from apparel industry let others know the secrete of effective merchandising . They may have less competency in expressing knowledge or they feel comport to keep it secrete. I think we have still numerous topic which is either little discussed or never discussed but very necessary to know. Your experience is your strength & power. So,If you can keep it in written document that might help others . In the same way if we can put all our knowledge & experiences in one basket altogether definitely our professional skill will go further ahead. Here i want to share some of my experiences & struggle that took me little longer to be successful. I know this may not be same for everyone & everyone has different challenges in his profession. But some common struggle that might not be avoid whoever you be & wherever you are working. Most of the time we suffer because our prediction some time does not match to reality. If you are little prepared before hand for the upcoming challenges you must suffer less than to be learning nothing . But to be prepared or mind setup for your upcoming challenges some one has to stand to tell you what challenges you are going to face. This is most important matter that in our country we get little information or nothing information from seniors that can help any one in the way of working. So today i want to share my experience & understanding in my way point of view . You may differ to me that does not matter the factor is sharing experience.
Factory Merchandiser vs. Buying House Merchandiser
Factory Merchandiser vs. Buying House Merchandiser
Why the Subject Title?
Why I picked the topic for today’s discussion you may need little explanation. Actually in my early career I was fool enough to think Merchandising in factory & Merchandising in Buying house is the same thing. I realize the difference when started career in Buying house & found in every step things are different , nothing is moving, nothing is happening. As I mentioned earlier if someone could tell me how Buying house Merchandising differs from factory merchandising I never faced those difficulties in my Buying career for not having knowledge in both way working. Yes, I struggled, I understand & I realized by doing wrong to be perfect merchandising. I know many of us can do it easily either in factory or buying house without difficulties but this is not same for all specially I am not from exception. If we could identify the difference of working in both area definitely this will help others those are still thinking to work either in buying house or in factory. I believe if someone start career in a buying house he might have face difficulties when do it in factory & the same thing happen for a merchandiser who works in factory & trying to do it in buying house. Actually this is not same rather totally different in my view. You will see some time your seniors are not much interested to let you know how things happen in particular area – buying or factory. For this reason we suffer in every step of our career & get success late or fail. I feel, my learning is not much & have not much experience but feel to share whatever I possess. At least you will not be sudden surprised in a new world.

Factory Merchandising is the Best Merchandising:
Most of the time people get merchandising in factory is very messy, exhausting & laborious. Dust & uncomfortable hot environment makes anyone easily feed up in working to factory. Meeting people at below standard, dealing unpleasant moment or receiving unexpected words from people is very common in factory. We know maximum people who works in factory either they have little education or nothing education but has long time experience. So they tried to be dominant most of the time on merchandiser. On the other hand factories are located usually in remote area so if someone wants to work in factory he must feel the world is behind his back & time is really boring not to get much time to enjoy family & friends’ .That is why people are not much interested to work at factory rather gets comfort working at buying house. Yes, working in buying house is little comfortable than factory but not a place to understand for product manufacturing. In the factory you can improve your knowledge to see the things. May be you are a textile student or not but the most important thing is to understand all the manufacturing process & unfortunately without working at factory this is almost impossible. I feel there are lots of issues in manufacturing that one cannot get proper knowledge by reading books or working in buying house. Some time you may think frequently visit at factory will help you to understand the manufacturing process but the reality is different & this is not sufficient to understand everything. Because a merchandiser when works at factory he meets challenges & gets the solution from experienced people or by own experience which can develop new method to ease work load. So a factory merchandiser is more energetic & innovative for his verities of responsibilities. He faces tremendous pressure from buying concern, factory management & some time unfavorable situation. So in any consideration factory merchandiser is more ahead in problem-solving method than a buying merchandiser. I can say a factory merchandiser is a paddy grower & a buying merchandiser is paddy trader only. A factory merchandiser with a little effort can make him enable to work in buying house where as a buying merchandiser most of the time fails to work in factory because of his lack of strength, energy & motivational knowledge.

Buying Merchandising is Abstract Merchandising:
Abstract means – something that you cannot touch or feel by organ unlike concrete. In the factory a merchandiser can see the machine, production process & final goods but in the buying house he can get the information about up-dated product status. So for him the information is abstract where as factory merchandiser can get concrete knowledge by visualization. That is why the information what a buying merchandiser gathers about a product cannot be correct in all the way. He may receive wrong information from a wrong source so for him some time things become difficult to up-date his customer. This is very important for a buying merchandiser to be up-dated with real situation. Usually buying merchandiser collects the information from different source to justify reality of a problem & find the solution. His prediction power should be keener than to a factory merchandiser. Because in abstract merchandising things are really difficult to manage when raise unexpected situation. So buying merchandiser always keeps the alternative way of solution & thinks beforehand what may happen next. This is really important for him because any when anything may change without prior notice. We will keep few key points later in separate Para to give concrete idea about responsibility of a buying merchandiser. However in abstract merchandising something more important issues are involved that must not avoidable like – customer relationship , customer values , business development , innovation of new product , understanding of new trend, increasing communication , managing both customer & vendor , understanding of product chain management , environment & health issues , finally safety & wages . These all are abstract & so buying merchandising is more than technical rather service oriented. Undoubtedly the true is buying merchandisers are comparatively creative than a factory merchandiser.

Buying House- No Entry for Old Man:
You may feel my word is little rude but this is the reality which no one can avoid. In Bangladesh context we see buying house is not for the people who are above age 50. Rather very young people are working here in the buying houses more efficiently. If you see someone above age of 45 or 50 definitely either he is in excellent work force or just getting old age benefit from owner. I am really sorry for the people who lost job at old age though his maximum energy of young hood has given for the organization. Why Buying house does not favour old man? Actually they are more experienced & efficient in the profession after that in a Buying house old men are always useless whereas in the Europe people in old age gets more attention in the organization because of their long time experience . Some particular reasons are identified in a study behind this practice. Hope this will help everyone to be more aware in the career.
  • In the Buying house people always like to see young, energetic, motivated & creative professional. 
  • Observation says in Bangladesh those are working in Buying house for a long time they loss their energy, innovative force because of age. They seem are not moving & motionless. This is really shocking when people feel they are useless. Even management feels they are burden for organization so starting treat different. Finally the person himself left his job or gets fired. 
  • This is true the person who works in the organization for a longtime he deserves to receive old age benefit because of service but this is not recognized in Bangladesh. 
  • Normally a person who works in an organization for a long time he receives a full volume of package-salary because of yearly increment in the job. So at age of 50 owner feels the package is much costly in compare to his present service so they try to hire new people & very fresh professional by reducing package for the same service. 
  • In Bangladesh people often stop their growing when he is in certain age of his career. He thinks long time experience is enough for the coming days but this is not true. Study & keep growing with the latest invention is very important to be updated with the competitive outer world.
But a good news also for the elderly professional who has still enough energy to work newly. In general Bangladesh garment industry prefer experienced professional for factory. So if a person when does not get room in the Buying house he must see a new ray of opportunity in the factory. Factory needs experienced professional though he is elder in age where as buying house always looking for young. Yes, Factory is the last destiny for the merchandising professional in Bangladesh but not the Buying house. So never lost your hope & never stop growing.

Get Experience in both Factory & Buying Merchandising:
From my above discussion you already realized for a merchandiser professional this is very important to have experience from both way – Factory & Buying House. Here we can categorize merchandising as below.
  • Starting from: Factory – Buying house – Factory. Best way of merchandising to be perfect professional. 
  • Starting from: Factory – Factory – Factory. This is also good to stay in factory & continuing there at end of the career. 
  • Starting from: Buying House – Factory – Factory. This is actually very tough for a merchandiser working in factory after being habituated with buying house & with all its working process. 
  • Starting from: Buying House – Buying House – Buying House. Very few people can continue his career in the buying house up to his retirement. So never think your career will go under all the blessing in the buying house for a long period unless you are extremely sincere to uplift career & try to grow in every step of profession.
In general if you are above age of 40 never think to start career in buying house because this is the period of transaction to be ignored by the people. Rather better to stay in factory where age gives more value for long experience. However exception is not example but thing should have to be changed that age cannot be barrier to keep continuing career in Buying house. We hope all the professional should be aware enough to keep him growing with the contemporary time.

Key Responsibility of a Factory Merchandiser:
If you are working in a Factory no need to tell you the key responsibility of your job but this is important for a Buying merchandiser who wants to work in Factory after growing in buying house. The below short key can help a fresh graduate who is willing to get start career in factory also.
  • Yarn procurement. 
  • Trims booking. 
  • Preparing TNA so that everyone can get the priority. 
  • Keeping Production update.
  • Preparing for final inspection: Making packing list & getting approval, if require attaching any carton sticker.
  • Goods ex-factory: Make sure to arrange covered van & ensure it to reach forwarder’s premises.
  • Proceeding for Lab dip submission: Keep close relationship with lab section so that they can give you better support. 
  • Proceeding for all approval: Print, embroidery, trims as well as bulk lot. 
  • Inventory: Fabric, trims, carton etc. Keep close monitoring with store department. 
  • Forwarder space booking: Keep close contact with forwarder if necessary to get special permission.
  • Fabric Booking: Before fabric booking one must check it with cutting section along with knitting department. Because for some issues if you don’t get consultation from these two section there are possibility to have error. So don’t be too smart to ignore people whom you are going to meet next. 
  • Sample Making: Calculate submission date as per your TNA so make sure to receive fabric on time along with all the trims. Don’t miss single item that related in making of sample. Because missing of any item in sample making will delay the process.
  • Mail communication: This is very important to keep communication for any purpose with buyer & keep satisfy them.
  • Minutes & Cutting permission: For a factory merchandiser cutting permission is very important. This is actually making a complete file having all the information about the product which will be followed by all the section. So any error in making this file can be devastating. We will discuss the subject in separate article for more clarification. Minutes with the entire department, making action plan for the goods delivery is very important. 
  • Giving schedule to buying house to conduct inspection: For a factory merchandiser this is very difficult to manage an Instructor who comes for final inspection. Legal & illegal lots of demand may come from the inspector & merchandiser has to mange everything for his final delivery. So to be a factory merchandiser, be patient & creative enough. Off course developing relationship is very important. 
Key Responsibility of a Buying Merchandiser:
As you know above maximum job for a buying merchandiser is abstract. Now you can realize how he does all these abstract merchandising. Basically factory merchandiser performs the entire task for production where as buying merchandiser is his shadow to follow the job. Suppose factory merchandiser completed fabric booking, here buying merchandiser does not do anything but is doing it abstractly. That means buying merchandiser acting on everything.
  • Buying Merchandiser keeps close monitoring on work progress done by factory merchandiser – like lab dip, fabric booking, sampling the entire day to day merchandising job.
  • Keep aware the entire production unit to meet dead line.
  • Keep communication with both factory & customer.
  • Get the current issues from both factory & customer & try to find a good solution.
  • He is the only one that keeps & cannot miss any of the submissions & approval.
  • Works on TNA.
  • Production update & forecast customer if require additional time for delivery.
  • Product Development is very important for a buying merchandiser to get good new customer.
  • Sourcing for production unit, fabric, trims & also for new product.
  • Works on price to manage both factory & customer.
  • Business & profit assessment.
  • Prepare QC file.
  • Ensure Quality by close monitoring with quality team.
  • If any quality issue arises & if not possible to manage, let the buyer know the practical situation & try to get the solution.
  • Keep contact to commercial & shipping department for shipment & settle payment issue.
  • Keep contact to shipping agent if needed special permission for goods delivery.
  • Managing customer when they pay visit to production unit.
How a Factory Merchandiser can Get into a Buying House:
In general factory merchandiser always wishes to get a job in buying house because of many reasons. Mostly to do job in less stress, enjoying holidays & sometimes feel working in buying house is more honorable. I don’t feel so; actually it depends on your attitude. If you are really creative & innovative it does not vary for both the working place. This is actually professionalism what you should have to grow in career. Stress is not bad rather it gives you opportunity to grow. This is true in this sense because very few people can accept stress & challenges. If you are really bold enough to accept it you will be successful either in factory or in buying house. Never under mean your place. Keep respect for job & definitely it will reward you .However if you are really determined to get into buying house please try to follow some principles & practice it along with regular merchandising job.
  • Be proactive: You should have to take all the responsibilities proactively. No one will come to advice you what to do & not to do in prioritizing job. Some time we see in the factory people wait until a reminder comes from buying house. So like factory customer will not remind you & if they do that you will not be right persons for buying house.
  • Prompt action: Whatever requirement that you receive from customer should have to perform immediately. If not possible ask time politely by giving exact reason.
  • Customer service: Customer service is very important in Buying house whereas in factory some time people has a habit of ignoring it. So never so NO to your customer. 
  • Excellent communication: Language communication in both verbal & written is very important preferably in English. If you have competency in other languages that would be added advantage. 
  • To be updated: Actively keep all your updates as soon customer ask to present it. 
  • Time management: If you want to job in Buying house following time management is undoubtedly important. You have to follow TNA & make others to follow as well. 
  • Be a leader: Yes, buying merchandiser is all time leader. He has to mange situation or people so, to be a good buying merchandiser be a good leader. 
  • Never stop growing: you already heard this words several time after that will say keep continue your growing by study, experience, consultation & by other means.
Conclusion:
In conclusion we must say please love your job, love your desk. Don’t show your crazy mood & don’t be upset that your working place is not as your expectation. Believe me if you love your job definitely it will give you reward. Whatever difficulties you are facing think this is for certain period. Don’t think Buying House is the best & Factory merchandising is less honorable. Already you realized how people keep moving to factory after a certain period of time. No way except factory & this is the best place to learn merchandising. Finally –keep growing, learn & practice. 
 
Another article of this author:
The Way of Smart Merchandising
 
 

Fabric Faults or Defects in Circular Knitting Machine

Defects in Circular Knitting:
Circular knitting machine is widely used through out the knitting industry to produce fabric. It has been designed and manufactured for mass production of knitted fabrics. The special properties of knitted fabrics, especially fine fabrics made by the circular knitting process. Among them huge positive this knitting machine also has some problems and limitations. Many faults and defects occurred during knitting. These faults and defects are given below.

Fabric Faults or Defects in Circular Knitting Machine
  1. Barre
  2. Holes in fabric
  3. Lower GSM
  4. Spirality
  5. Tight loops
  6. Slack loop
  7. Slack loop
  8. Snagging in ladies suits
  9. Bird’s eye
  10. Dropped stitch
  11. Needle line
  12. Bowing
  13. Streak or stop mark
  14. Skewing
  15. Slub
  16. Press off
  17. Run
  18. Scrimps
  19. Boardy
  20. Ladder
  21. Tucking
  22. Float
  23. Missing plush loop
  24. Stain
  25. Thin yarn
  26. Thick yarn
A short description of the defects are given below:  
 
1. Barre – Barre is an unintentional repetitive visual pattern of continuous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of woven fabric or to the courses of circular knitted fabric. Mixing of yarns of different lots or counts, fibre micronaire variation, fibre colour variation, yarn linear density variation, yarn twist variation, yarn hairiness variation, knitting tension variation, improper mixing of cotton from different origin, improper mixing of cotton from different varieties and improper mixing of cotton grown in different seasons, difference in tension between the feed packages, yarns/filaments of different elongation properties fed without proper control of tensions, improper stitching cam setting, uneven take down pull, over stretching of fabrics and exposing of cones to sunlight of a long time are the main causes of barre attributed to knitting operation. Barre can be caused by physical, optical or dye differences in the yarns, geometric differences in the fabric structure or by any combination of these differences. It is basically a visual phenomenon and any property of yarn which makes it ‘look’ different from the adjacent yarn in a fabric would result in this defect. All barre is the consequence of subtle differences in yarn reflectance between individual yarns in the knit structure. Any mechanism that can change the reflectance of a yarn in a knit structure is a potential barre source A barre streak can be one course or end wide or it can be several - a “shadow band”. It is not the inadequacy of the raw material property which results in barre; it is the inconsistency or the variability of the particular property which results in Barre.
Baree in fabric
Baree in fabric
2. Holes in fabric – A hole or a press off is the result of a broken yarn at a specific needle feed so that knitting cannot occur. Fluff accumulation on the knitting creel if fall on the needle zone, or the knots and slubs if present in the yarn are the main reasons for holes in the fabric. Yarn imperfections in which one or several yarns are sufficiently damaged to create an opening also contribute to this problem. A good and clean working area is very essential. The blowing or suction fans can be provided to prevent fluff accumulation on the cones, yarn and the knitting area.
Hole in fabric
Hole in fabric
3. Lower GSM – Count of the yarn finer than the required, a lower loop length, and lesser course and wales are the main reasons for lower GSM of knitted fabric.

4. Spirality – A higher twist in the grey yarns, improper steaming or conditioning of yarn, take-up roller set in a slanted position are the main reasons for Spirality.

5. Loop to loop variation – Variation in loop parameters at micro level such as loop-to-loop variation in dimension, geometrical shape of loop and localized variation in loop density can be reduced by improvement of knit structure by better understanding of mechanics of loop formation, fluidity of knit structures and their influence on quality of knit fabrics. The quality of hosiery yarn viz. the uniformity and twist factor for the staple length of fibres used has to be considered with due weightage to these aspects. The machine parameters such as gauge, needle type, cam type, yarn feeding system, number of feeders, take down system, cloth rolling or spreading are to be monitored and controlled.

6. Tight loops – This may take the form of a shadow (several courses involved) or a discreet line (one course involved). It will normally show up as a dark or dense line or shadow

7. Slack loop – Slack loop shows up as a sheer or light line

8. Snagging in ladies suits – A snag is a desirable surface loop of varying size on woven or knitted fabrics often caused by catching on sharp points or objects. To prevent this ensure adequate twist in the yarn, firm fabric construction, proper handling of materials, and smooth surface at all fabric moving and storing areas.

9. Bird’s eye – In knitting, an unintentional tuck stitch is called as a Bird’s Eye. The tension variation and hairiness are the main reasons for this.

10. Dropped stitch – Defect in knitted fabric; recurrent openings in one or more wales of a length of knitted fabric because the stitches did not knit.
Dropped stitch
11. Needle line – Lengthwise streak in knitted goods caused by improper alignment of a needle or its incorrect spacing cause the Needle Lines. This is caused by needle movement due to a tight fit in its slot or a defective sinker.

12. Bowing – A line or a design may curve across the fabric. This bowing is the distortion caused by faulty take-up mechanism on the knitting machine.

13. Streak or stop mark – A straight horizontal streak or stop mark in the knitted fabric is due to the difference in tension in the yarns caused by the machine being stopped and then restarted.

14. Skewing – Skewing effect is seen as a line or design running at a slight angle across the cloth.

15. Slub – Unexpected sudden thickness in the yarn

16. Press-off – Condition in knitting when a yarn breaks or fails to knit

17. Run – In reference to knit goods, a series of dropped stitches is called as a Run, as a run in hosiery.

18. Scrimps – A wrinkle caused by excessive strain, tension, or pressure on a fabric.

19. Boardy – The knitted fabric becomes boardy (a stiff or harsh hand) when the stitches have been knit very tightly.

20. Cockled or puckered – Uneven stitches or yarn sizer result in cockling or puckering.

21. Ladder – A ladder indicates a row of dropped stitches in the wale.

22. Tucking – This is the result of an unintentional tucking in the knitted fabric. This is also called the bird’s eye defect.

23. Float – This is caused by a miss stitch which is the result of failure of one or more needles to have been raised to catch the yarn.

24. Missing plush loop – Malfunctioning of loop

25. Stains – Stains are mainly due to improper house keeping, oil leakages in the machines, improper handling, uncleaned containers of materials and lack of awareness among the employees and the management.

26. Thin yarn – Variations in count, singles in yarns, sliver or rove, partial lapping in speed frame drafting rollers, are normal reasons for a thin place in the yarn.

27. Thick yarn – Variations in counts, doubles in sliver and rove, lashing in, low pressure on drafting rollers are normal causes for thick yarn.